UP, UP AND AWAY.....

Friday, June 26, 2015

Up at 4:30 for coffee delivered to our tent. We were escorted to our waiting vehicles at 5 for the drive to the site of the balloon launch. There were 4 green and white striped balloons waiting to be launched. We were a group of 7 in our party so we merged with another group of 9 to complete our basket. 

The basket itself was prone on the ground and contained 16 open rectangular fairly deep cubbies into which 2 people crawled till they were prone to the ground. The balloon pilot had his space between each group of 8 cubbies. Then he checked to make sure the balloon was full and and fired up the burners to gently raise the basket to an uptight position and up we went!  Our FIRST balloon ride.....in the Serengeti no less!!

"Up, Up and Away in our Beautiful, our Beautiful Balloon."  What a sight!  We traveled in the 8 knot wind, up and down, between 40 and 800 feet. We saw a male lion lying in the grass 40 feet below us , hundreds of zebra and wildebeest and passed  over a hippo pool with many hippos, one even yawning with his mouth wide open!  We were floating around, enjoying the breeze, the sunrise and the renowned Serengeti below us. What could be better? Our landing was perfect and, right then and there, we celebrated with champagne!

After climbing back into safari vehicles, we headed out a few minutes to a beautiful field where we were treated to a traditional English breakfast including bangers and roasted tomatoes. Oh, and more champagne. Moses, our pilot say with us and chatted. A Tanzanian by birth, he's now married to a Canadian and lived in Canada. After a delightful repast served by uniformed waiters, we rejoined our Asilia group and headed back to Dunia Camp  via some pretty rough roads. Saw more wildlife and searched for lions, leopards and cheetah.   

Upon returning to Dunia, I read Suzanne's latest Caring Bridge blog and was extremely emotional. What a beautiful exposition!  Thank you, Suzanne. Lunch and R&R for a couple of hours before taking a sunset safari where we traveled back roads and saw a parade of elephants (one actually looked like he might be ready to charge us), a dazzle of zebras and a gang of Cape buffalo. Finally stopped near a river of flamingoes where some of the staff from Dunia met us for sunset drinks (sundowners!). What a pleasant surprise!

Back at Dunia, another great dinner and dessert and bed on the early side. Tomorrow we fly to Saraya Camp so we leave Dunia at 8. 

African massage and African poda

June 25, 2015

Up this morning for a quick breakfast at 7, checked out, left with Peter, Bea, Tom and our driver Chande for the Serengeti. We passed rustling Acacia trees onto the endless plain of the Serengeti, which means endless plain!  

Our first stop was the Oldupai Gorge where the Leakeys did their fossil work. There was an informative narrative done by a charming young lady with a great command of the English language. She explained the various levels of the gorge, the oldest of which is 2 million years old, and the discovery of homo erectus and homo sapiens. 

On the next leg of our journey we saw dik-diks and a tower of giraffes who were going from tree to tree eating. They do this because, after a few minutes, the trees emit a distasteful liquid!  We passed boma corrals for Maasai herds of cattle, sheep ang goats. The boma are made of bushes in a circle. Soon we were at a Maasai village where we had a tour.

At the village, Matthew, the son of the village chief, speaking in excellent English, introduced us to village life. The men of the village, dressed in traditional garb did a jumping dance. The women did the same. Joseph was Peter's and my guide around the village. He even showed us one of the huts where a family sleeps. Since the men are polygamous, each wife has a hut for herself and her own children. As a matter of fact, each woman builds her own hut, surmounted by a roof made of grass. SMALL!!  After the tour, we surveyed the  goods handmade by the village members all of whom are related. We ended the tour by buying 2 small carved animals and some jewelry and paid $90.00 in dollars!  Way too much money but a good way to support the Maasai people. 

At noon we left the Ngorongoro Conservation Area and entered the FLAT Serengeti. We soon saw jackals, gazelles and zebra and our first hartebeest, saddle bill stork and topi. Next we stopped to register for our balloon ride tomorrow and then proceeded to Dunia Camp. Along the way we observed our first leopards. They were snoozing on the limb of a tree, completely oblivious to us!!

Dunia Camp is another Asilia facility as was Oliver's camp. Asilia is a safari tour group based in Arusha and has planned and guided our safari in Tanzania. Our naturalist is Esto and our guide/drivers are Raphael, Emmanuel and Chande. They are 4 of the Asilia employees and have done a superb job!

At Dunia Camp we were greeted as we exited our vehicles with wet, warm wash cloths to refresh our hands and face after a fascinating but grueling 8 hour drive mostly on rutted dirt rods. Hence the "African massage and African  poda!"  Poda in translation means dust". Angel, the camp director, welcomed us and gave us the "lay of the land."  We have raised tents, each with a deck,  a zippered opening to the inside where there is a sitting area, a bedroom area with king size bed, a bathroom and a shower. We were able to rest a bit and take a shower before dinner; it's a bucket shower and I had to order the warm water and have it delivered to our tent. The water flow is controlled by a spigot!    We then joined the others at"bush tv"for a drink around the fire before a great dinner with our group of 12 and then retired  for the night at 9:30. We have to get up at 4:30 AM tomorrow and leave at 5 so we can start our balloon ride just before sunrise. 

FLAMINGOS, LIONS AND RHYNOS, OH MY!!!

Wednesday, June 24, 2015

Our day started at 6 AM, breakfast buffet at 6:30, on the road at 7 driving down into the crater. First sighting hundreds of wildebeast , then a pride of 3 lions, some Thompson gazelles, zebras, beautiful crowned cranes who sport what looks like a golden Afro and a grant gazelle with her.  The "piece de resistance" was a view of thousands of pink flamingos on blue water!  Amazing!!!

Further along we observed wildebeests grazing together, a zebra sniffing prone wildebeast and then "hippo heaven," a family of hippos lounging and snoozing in the water!  A "dust devil," a perfect funnel was the backdrop, many miles away.   

The crater is a perfect eco-system with grazing land and a soda lake whose size varies with the rainfall. The wild animals enjoy the area together with little or no conflict unless a lion is hungry!

We saw a Kori bustard with its baby. Chande, our driver today, said he's never seen a baby Kori. An ostrich group was nearby. The males are polygamous and ALL of the impregnated eggs are in one nest and the females take turns sitting on the nest!

The next highlight was a buffalo kill with 2 male lions enjoying the carcass.  There were also 3 or 4 female lion nearby waiting for their turn. The females typically kill the prey, the males eat first, then the females and then the hyenas and jackals have their chance.   These  lions were surrounded at a distance by a single buffalo who looked to be in mourning. The curious jackals and hyenas were waiting their turn. Interestingly there are only 3 lion prides in the Ngorongoro Crater. Shortly after that, we saw some hyenas slinking around, stalking wildebeests and they were chased off by other attentive wildebeests. 

HIGH POINT: a black rhino sighting at 11:00. The sighting was at a distance but the guides are incredible at spotting wildlife with the naked eye. The rhino was not not any more attractive closer up!!  Almost prehistoric looking!!  Rhinos don't travel in packs; they are "loners!"

Local Maasai take their cattle down the steep walls of the crater, a right negotiated with the government, to graze the cattle. The interaction of cattle with wild animals is almost non-existent. We actually saw cows and zebras grazing side by side but not interacting and thereby preventing the spread of disease between them. Amazing!

Lunch was quite memorable! A picnic in the savannah of the crater with tables set with tablecloths and napkins, dishes, silverware and wine glasses!  All elegantly served by Serena Lodge personnel. We had grilled chicken and beef sausage, vegetable casserole, parsley potatoes and salad. Dessert was a choice of raspberry cake, lemon pie and eclairs. Wine, beer and water were poured!  WOW!!

Before making our way up the crater on a road paved with stones (done by hand!), we were treated with a sighting of a black maned lion who had 3 females nearby!  Back at the lodge about 3:30, we were given the rest of the afternoon "off!"  And we all took advantage of the time to rest before meeting for cocktails at 7 PM. 

Carol joined us for cocktails. Dinner was much better tonight. The cream of broccoli soup was good as was the salad bar. Peter's beef entree and my traditional chicken were both very good as were the desserts. Again we had to pay $2.00 for a bottle of water!  Joanne also joined us for dinner and the talk was lively. We still are questioning the tips here at Serena Lodge and think the explanation by Classic Escapes needs to be more transparent. There needs to be a clear leader of the group to answer our questions about tipping. 

We leave tomorrow at 8 AM for Dunia Camp in Serengeti National Park.  May not have wi-fi for a few days. Will post when I'm able!

OUR FIRST HIPPO

Tuesday, June 23, 2015

Up at 6:30 for breakfast at 7 in order to leave Oliver's Camp for Lake Manyara National Park, the Ngorongoro Crater and Ngorongoro Serena Safari Lodge. I took photos of everyone in our group and Justin showed us photos of wildlife who, last night while we slept, activated night cameras set up near camp buildings. WOW....even an elephant!

Back in our Land Cruisers, we took a last swing through the Tarangire.  We saw more elephants, giraffes with babies, a troop of baboons (suckling, fighting, and mating) 

small green lovebirds,

several dazzles of zebra and a

pride of 3 sleeping lions!!!

We left  Tarangire National Park at 10:45 and drove through an area of towns and farms with cornfields and herds of cattle and goats of all colors and sizes crossing paved roads. We followed a new road toward Manyara 

and stopped at 11:30 to pick up a new Classic Escapes passenger. While there we 

bought local peanuts and handmade bracelets from Masai women who approached our vehicle.  $1 each!!!

At noon we stopped at the Children Concern Foundation where we fell in love with the orphans who are cared for and taught there. Esther grabbed my hand and we walked together to tour the school and dorms. Delightful!  We knew we were stopping there so each of us had brought books for the children. 

Soon we passed through a lively, busy Masai town outside forested Manyara National Park and entered the park at 1. First stop was a picnic, bag lunches from Oliver's. Driving through the park we observed baboons grooming each other and blue velvet monkeys chasing each other. The park is essentially a ground water forest that supports fig and mahogany trees. The star event was the Hippo Pool. Even though we saw only one hippo, there were cape buffalo, wildebeasts, zebras, Maribou storks, egrets and other water fowl. 

On the way to Ngorongoro Crater we had a break at a very well appointed souvenir shop where Peter found an authentic brick oven where they made pizza margarita. Only problem:  no time to wait for a pizza!! On the road again we drove by some very well tended farms growing lots of sunflowers. This area, just outside Ngorongoro, seems to be more prosperous than others we've seen. 

Ngorongoro itself is unique. It is an ecosystem of 102 square miles and 1800 feet deep formed 2 million years ago when the cone of a volcano collapsed. It is a microcosm of East African scenery with abundant wildlife. Masai families farm the land so wild and domesticated animals live together. We will visit it tomorrow.   

After 10 hours in our vehicles, we finally arrived at our "resting place" for the next two nights, the Ngorongoro Serena Safari Lodge, built at the edge of the crater. Unbelievable!!  75 rooms in a lodge with the feel of Frank Lloyd Wright!!!  Beautifully appointed but not great food!  

Early morning tomorrow!

A DAY AT TARANGIRE

Monday, June 22, 2015

After a good night's sleep in our huge bed warmed by hot water bottles and surrounded by screens and the pitch black, we awoke at 5:50 to get ready for our day of safari in Tarangire National Park. At 6 a staff member arrived with a tray containing a pot of hot coffee with cups, accoutrements and biscuits. Up at the open air dining room, we assembled with the other guests and our group for a breakfast of eggs, bacon, sausage, pancakes, fruit and muffins. And then, at 7, we were off on safari. 

Today I went with Peter, Bea and Tom with our guides Esto, the boss and naturalist of the Asilia Safaris guides and Emmanuel, one of the driver/guides. They have been taught that the park/bush is "the animals' home, not our home!"  We drove by many acacia trees, aka umbrella trees, because of their shape. Also saw a couple of "candelabra" trees.....amazing!  

Here is a sampling of what we observed: A black backed jackal,a bush chicken, a Martial eagle who had preyed upon a guinea fowl or bush chicken (this eagle can eat a baby impala!), mongeese atop and in a termite mound (they eat termites!),  and black-faced monkeys.  We also saw plovers, black storks, white faced whistling ducks, herons and also rollers who are very colorful ( 7 colors) but who sing terribly, an eagle owl, and a water buck (who has a natural white circle on his butt that looks like a toilet seat!)

Do you know the following names of groups: a business of mongoose, a tower of giraffes, a Parade of elephants, a pride of ostriches or lions, a parliament of Eagles and a school of monkeys. 

ATTENTION:  a lion sighting at 11:20 AM!!!!!  Esto has great eyes and saw a lion in the distance sitting atop a termite mound. A little far away but we could see it through our binoculars. And then another sighting at noon. This one was much closer!  A mother and 3 Cubs came down from hills, crossed in front of us and sauntered down to the water and back!  WOW!!!!!

After more than 7 hours on safari, we returned to Oliver's camp for a delicious lunch of self-made wraps with chicken and marinated veggies, beautifully served and ending with a fabulous jelled passion fruit dessert.  My Kilimanjaro beer (quite light) hit the spot. The remainder of the afternoon we spent regrouping, repacking and resting. 

BTW:  AS I'M WRITING THIS, IT'S 4:40 PM AND 4 GENET JUST STROLLED BY OUR TENT BOLD AND BRAZEN AS COULD BE!!!!  5:45 A PARADE OF ELEPHANTS JUST PASSED BY ON THE SEVANAH IN FRONT OF OUR TENT!!

Off to sunset and cocktails. More later.  

Sunset was spectacular on the Sunset Deck with gin and tonics followed by lively chatter around "the bush TV" fire pit. Dinner was again delicious and elegantly served in the roofed dining roof: steak, broccoli, scalloped potatoes, butternut squash and coconut cream pie. Again, lively discussion ensued. Dinner ended with a lively musical parade with drums by the staff. All in all, it was a fitting end to our stay at Oliver's Camp. 

Back in Tent 3, after being escorted there by a staff member, we went to bed serenaded by silence with only the sounds of nature. 

In the "BUSH"

 Sunday June 21, 2015

So here I go, semi-darkness and no wi-fi!  I won't be able to post until at least Tuesday but if I don't write this now, I won't remember the details!

This morning we got up at 6 AM, ready for our next adventure. After a hot shower in our en/suite bathroom, repacking, and a lovely breakfast in the beautiful dining room of the lodge, we embarked in our Land Cruiser for Tarangire National Park. I rode with Gail and Carol and our charming guide Raphael who taught us some Swahili vocabulary and regaled us with much local info. Peter rode with Bea, Tom and Ashley. 

Driving through Arusha town and a Masai village were interesting but "third World!"  But when we got to the countryside, we were astounded!  Herds of goats led by kids, donkeys carrying casks of water and women gathering water at any water source available. There are many small Masai villages with thatched roof dwellings, each probably belonging to a polygamous Masai male, each dwelling inhabited with a wife and children. All this along with shrub and forest savannahs. 

Once we entered Tarangire National Park, we were "blown away!"  Elephants, giraffes, gazelles, warthogs (pretty ugly!), impalas, ostriches, zebras, exotic birds, beautiful flora and fauna. Unbelievable and totally awesome. Lunch was served at a picnic area, and I mean SERVED!  And there were black-faced monkeys who tried to snatch away some lunch food from picnickers. Back on the road there were more fantastic road views and interesting info from our guides. 

We arrived at Oliver's Camp about 6 PM. It's a "bush" camp in the middle of nowhere. We are in Tent 3 of 10 tent sites. Totally isolated, no wi-fi, escorts needed between 6:30 PM and 6:30 AM to the main camp area because of wildlife roaming the camp at night, all power is solar, all screened, thatched roof. But, there is an indoor bathroom with an outdoor shower. Jackie (South-African) and Justin (Canadian) run the camp of ten "tents" along with a staff of about 20. We had cocktails at the fire pit as the sun set and a remarkable dinner at the   outdoor dining room. It's 11PM, Peter's snoring and our alarm is set for 5:50 AM. 

Until tomorrow, with more adventures.....,