The Rim of the World

April 22

We were up early to reorganize and repack.  Tom cooked breakfast:  bacon, sausage, eggs, fruit, toast. By 8:45 it was already 80 degrees!  At 10:00 we were off to the Rim of the World Scenic Byway after a stop at Starbucks! It is so comfortable being with Bea and Tom here and anywhere in our enduring 50 year friendship. We love their desert home especially all of the outdoor areas. And I was only in my "teacher mode" once when discussing our itinerary for today!

On I10 W there were many dense wind farms. It was 77 degrees but we could see bits of snow atop barren mountains. At the Mill Creek Ranger Station in Meltone the temp had gone down to 71 degrees as we drove through the lovely town of Yucaipa. At 11:30 we entered the San Bernadino National Forest, on Rt. 138 and the beginning of the Rim of the World Scenic Byway. We viewed rocky hills that were pine-forested and drove on a curvy well-maintained road climbing the San Gorgonio  Mountains that were snow topped in the distance. We drove to Onyx Summit at 8443 feet and at 12:10 it was 61 degrees. 

We saw a few very small towns and then arrived in Big Bear City with a population of more than 12,000. The city is mainly a recreation area with a small airport. We passed Madlon's restaurant with Swiss chalet architecture that was for sale. In this isolated mountain area, there are strip malls, fast food restaurants, ski areas, even a Starbucks!  At one point, top down of course, Peter's hat blew off!!! Rescue mission!  Bear Lake is obviously low; a ranger had told us the area had had 4 inches of rain when 14 is usual! 

We had lunch by Bea at Boulder Bay at 1:00 then started following Rt. 18, a narrow road with sharp curves and rock slide signs. At a scenic pull-over with a view of the rim, we drove over glass bottle as we were leaving. Peter got out to examine the tires; they looked okay; fingers crossed. We passed more small towns and nice vacation homes. 

At 2:00, we foundHeaps Peak Arboretum. There was a short, informative, quiet, beautiful walk through the forest. We were introduced to Black oak trees which are really gray, we saw burned logs lying on the ground and scorched tree trunks on living trees,  all caused by the Old Fire in 2003. We listened to birdcalls, we heard the trees quaking, we saw a grove of giant sequoias planted in the 30s, we were entranced by the yellow dogwood and we observed many nesting boxes used primarily by Western Bluebirds. 

Our next stopping place was Lake Arrowhead and the upscale outlet-city chalet type buildings. There are 6 villages here, some VERY private. From there we took 

Rt. 138 and saw the San Bernardino Valley below us. It was very hazy which apparently is not unusual. There was lots of traffic in the opposite lane....weekenders? 

From there Rt. 138 became a narrow twisty road with some hairpins. At the overlook for the Silverwood Lake reservoir we saw white caps on the lake and it was so windy, Peter had to hold onto his hat!  We exited the multi-faceted Rim of the World Scenic Byway at 4:00 and headed north on I15. toward Death Valley. It was 82 degrees!  We ended our day at 

5:15 in Barstow, checked into a motel and had our dinner salads!  Yum!  Early night!

A Day of Funk and Elegance!

April 21

Today we were up at 8 for laundry day!!  About 9:30 and 86 degrees, we left Bea and Tom's to go out for breakfast in Palm Desert. The place chosen by out hosts was

Keedy's, the "Best Greasy Spoon," once featured on the Food Network. Since 1957 this place has had the same Formica tables, counter, stools and fountain. The men ordered chicken fried steak!!!

At 11:00, we headed for Santa Roda and San Jacunto National  Monument where there was a short paved walk amid desert flora. At 11:45 we arrived at the Palm Springs Art Museum for a funky exhibit presented by collector Donna MacMillan. The exhibit demonstrates embellishment and excess, and is sub- titled "Baroque to Bling."  There is a bonnet with 31,000 corsage pins, a giant charm bracelet, a silver encased pillow entitled "Somewhere between Sleeping on the Streets and the Silver Clouds," and a necklace titled "Freud."  Shortly after noon left  the museum a 45 minute shopping spree at Barnes & Noble  and were home at 1. The temp was now in the mid-90s!

Our afternoon was very leisurely-naps, reading, laundry, chats, soaking up the desert air. I walked the 3 mile perimeter of Desert Horizons, the gated golfing community in which the Sextons live, in  hopes of getting 10,000 today.....I succeeded!

After showering, etc., we headed for the Desert Horizons Club for a Wine-tasting Dinner featuring Trentedue Wines, produced in a family owned winery off Rt. 101 north of Santa Rosa. When the family arrived at Ellis Island, the patriarch was asked a question and answered, "Trentedue."  He thought he was being asked how many there were in the family so the family name became "Thirtytwo!"  

Anyway, we were served an elegant five-course prepared by the Desert Horizons chef, each course served with a different Trentedue wine: a large scallop cooked with bacon and capers, a piece of crumb encased sea bass with roasted lemon slices, a small loin lamb chop served with polenta, a palate cleanser of sorbet, a piece of filet of beef with a dollop of pate and asparagus. Dessert was chocolate soufflé served with  Trentedue Chocolate Port. Quite delicious and classy!  

We sat with Bea and Tom's friend, Betsy and Jim Hansen, and conversed easily and comfortably with them and other Sexton friends. Peter chatted with a man who was born in the same hospital he was in Brooklyn!  I had an interesting conversation with Lee, the first female mayor of Cedar Rapids, Iowa. Quite an evening!

A Day in the Desert

April 20

Another leisurely morning, 79 degrees and sunny. There was lots going on at home:  Tom had board meeting on the phone, a plumber came to install anew garbage disposal, the TV guy arrived to do some repair, the gardener was watering. Bea and I left the confusion at 9 for our pedicure appointment which was a bit of a fiasco for Bea. Her pedicurist smudged her big toe and had to do repair work!  I was finished at 9:30; Bea was done at 10:15. We celebrated our pedicures at Starbucks before returning home!

At noon (94 degrees) we left for Palm Springs 94 and Bill's Pizza, one of top 10 pizza places in U.S.  Bill's definitely passed the Bebop "test" 1:45. However, it had advertised a brick oven and all Peter could see was a regular commercial pizza oven. We all enjoyed our lunch. 

Our next stop was the Palm Springs Air Museum, mainly featuring World War II exhibits. There were docents available to explain each model ship, each photo, each display. They were eager to share information. We watched an illuminated exhibit showing the bombing of Pearl Harbor. Outside there were many actual restored World War II and Vietnam era planes. At the end of our tour, we sat for a while reading original copies of Look, Life and Saturday Evening Post magazines dated the months we were born. What a hoot!

On the way home, we stopped for provisions for dinner. Peter was the chef for Burrata appetizer, pork Parmesan, fresh pasta with red sauce and Bea's salad. Delish!  After dinner we sat around the table on the patio and solved ALL the problems we could think of........we talked, laughed, grew somber, grew earnest, laughed some more and finally went to bed.....later than usual!!

 

Under the Desert Sky

April 19

We were up at 7:30 this morning to sunny skies and 70 degree weather. Tom cooked breakfast and we talked till 9:00. By 10:00  we were on our way to the Living Desert, the sponsor of our safari last June. It is a living desert botanical garden and zoo in a setting compatible with natural habitats. We reveled in seeing several big horn sheep atop a cliff. Two of them were at the edge of the cliff outlined against the sunny blue sky. We saw camels, giraffes, butterflies, warthogs, cheetahs and many more. At one point we wandered in on a program about cheetahs and ran into Alan Monroe, president and CEO of the Living Desert and the leader of our safari. 

After a lively chat with Alan and reliving some safari escapades, we left the Living Desert and drove back toward Indian Wells, current temperature 96 degrees!! Before returning to Bea and Tom's we stopped at Bella Cucina for lunch and Whole Foods for groceries. At home at 2:45 we relaxed a bit, read the paper, and Bea and I decided to get a pedicure. At the nail place there was a one hour wait so we made an appointment for tomorrow morning and did some more window shopping!

Back home we played some Hand and Foot.....Bea and I CRUSHED the guys!!!  After a collaboratively prepared dinner (Peter made an appetizer of Burrata and tomatoes and also cacio de pepe over fresh pasta, Tom grilled steaks, I made a salad and Bea set the table) we ate on the patio in candlelight under the desert sky!!  Beautiful.....and delicious!!!!

It's amazing that we've known Bea and Tom for 50 years. We met in 1966 when Bea and I were first year teachers in Marblehead MA. Shortly after Tom and Peter met, Tom introduced Peter as George Petero to a classmate at BC Law!!!  We often use that name when together!!!  And we are godparents to their son Mark!  And they are godparents to our son Matt!  All these years and we still talk and talk and talk and talk.......

California, Here We Come!

April 18

We had a leisurely morning in Lake Havasu City, a resort and retirement community. In 1958 Robert McCulloch purchased 3353 acres and in 1962 McCulloch Properties bought 13,000 more acres. In 1962 the city was established and in 1968 McCulloch purchased London Bridge when it was being demolished in London. He bought the bridge disassembled for 2.5 million dollars and spent 7 million more putting it back together over a channel in Lake Havasu. 

So, after breakfast, we headed to the bridge and took a long walk along the channel boardwalk in  the breezy high 70s. This is "boat heaven!"  We saw a guy "fly boarding!"  If you're interested, Google it!  After a stop at In and Out Burger and then at Starbucks, we left Lake Havasu City at noon intending to go south on 95 in Arizona, onto I10 and into California. 

However, as we approached Parker Dam, which is on the Colorado River and created Lake Havasu, we decided to take a short detour across the dam and found ourselves on the Parker Dam Back Country Byway along Rt. 62 and the Colorado Aqueduct. We knew there were scenic byways but, after yesterday's trip, we realized there are also Back Country Byways. Talk about desert!!  Sand dunes, cliffs in the distance, 90 degrees. 

At 1:00 we decided to put up the top; we were frying in the sun!  67 miles through the desert, straight, flat, few vehicles, no cell phone service. This is about as desolate an area as we've traversed. These roads are 100% more fun, though, than the interstate and, except through the mountains, they're mostly 65 mph. NO TRUCKS!! It's 90 degrees in April.....can you imagine how hot it gets in July?  We hope the Mustang holds up!  So far, it's been perfect!  Oops!  Shouldn't have said that!  

At 2:20 we got on I10 in Desert Center and headed for Bea and Tom's in Indian Wells.   We arrived at 3:45, temp 96 degrees. We picked Bea up at the airport (she'd been in MN for Abe's first communion), had dinner at a French restaurant. After we got back to their hacienda, we gabbed for a short while but we were all tired!  Good night!

"Happening" and "Harrowing"

April 17

Up at 7:30 and left immediately for the closest

Starbucks. We left Sun City at 8:20, 72 degrees and drove on

Rt. 60 nw to Wickenburg. There were retirement communities lining the roadway on either side  and then open flat desert. It was a 

gorgeous day, not a cloud in the sky. Our first turn was at Rt. 89, north to Prescott to the longest remaining stretch of original Route 66. There were more desert mountains in the distance and the area was sparsely populated. It went down to 60 degrees as we went up a mountain and down to 57 degrees on a curvy road climbing out of the desert to 4700 feet. The road was less curvy through high desert with large prosperous horse and cattle ranches. We passed 3 small towns climbing again on twisting roads into the Prescott National Forest. Ten miles outside of Prescott we encountered a hairpin turn AMAZING ROAD!!!  7.6 miles outside of Prescott there was a stunning view and the temp went down to 53 degrees at 6100 feet. We saw the first evidence of forest fire

descending to Prescott. 

At 10:45 we arrived in downtown Prescott, a bustling vibrant city of 40,000. Many were out and about downtown, enjoying the day. The older Earp brother and Doc Holliday spent time here. Barry Goldwater, a native, announced his candidacy for president on the courthouse steps. Big Nose Kate, Wild West companion to Doc Holliday lived here. Fiorello LaGuardia was born here. Pretty cool history!  We took a 4000 step walk through the the downtown and saw many sandwich boards on the sidewalk inviting prospective patrons inside. We were 

very impressed with Prescott; it gave us a very warm comfortable feeling. Prescott is a "happening place!"

We left Prescott at 11:45, 59 degrees, to follow Rt. 89 north to Rt. 66. We passed through prosperous suburbs into Chino Valley, 64 degrees. The road went through ranch country and had many roundabouts. Back up into Prescott National Forest, we stopped for a picnic lunch on the back of the car at 12:45. We passed through the Kabib National Forest, got on I40 for one exit and at 1:23 we were driving on old Route 66 at its longest remaining stretch of the original road. Through the high desert, we observed several bicyclists who were geared up for a long ride. We saw many of the typical Burma Shave signs that we saw on our previous trip, spaced out for easy reading. 

Here are two examples:

If hugging on highway

Is your sport

Trade in your car

For a davenport 

Cattle crossing

Means go slow

That old bull 

Is some cow's beau

In Peach Springs there was a deserted old gas station. Is Radiator Springs named after this town?  Up in the mountains a huge train pulled by 5 engines then 137 cars was moving at 70 plus mph. We were racing  a train for 10 miles!  What a fabulous encounter!  The train then passed another train going the other way and pulled by 4 engines. It turned 75 degrees near Kingman. As we were approaching Kingman we saw our first traffic light, an airport and subdivisions. 

At 3:30 we were Kingman where Rt. 66 becomes County 10, a Back Country Byway. Driving south to Topock, the road was continuously twisting through tight switchbacks over Sitgreaves pass at 3652 feet. Suddenly we spotted our first roadrunner scooting across the road. The approach was a lonely rolling road that went over dry washes. All of a sudden there was no center line!  The white-knuckle road was not for the "faint of heart!" Switchbacks, one after the other, had posted signs of15 mph. No guard rails beside the deep canyons. OMG!!!  I'm not sure I'd do this drive again!  My hand ached from gripping the inside of my door. 

At the western-themed town of Oatman there were burros walking and posing along the main drag. People everywhere!!  One building even sported a Confederate flag!  Unfortunately there were no mock gunfights today! Outside town the road finally sported a center line!  We were now in the REAL desert, 86 degrees at 4:30. Soooo desolate descending to Golden Shores then Topock and the end of the the Rt. 66 Scenic Byway. 

At 4:50 we took I40 east to Rt. 95 south to Lake Havasu City, our stopping point for the day. Here it was low desert at 950 feet and still 86 degrees. We

checked in to our motel at 6 PM, had a yummy mixed salad for dinner, watched some TV  and soon went to bed. An impressive, amazing, harrowing day!!